Posted: Apr 09 2014
The next wave coming through is different than every other. It's yours to be ridden and never experienced again. A product of nature, it's perfect. It travels from miles away, then it breaks and it's gone forever.
Surely there is a place for machine made surfboards. There is also something special about a board that's one of a kind. Like the waves we ride, when it breaks you will never have it again. But in that there is something beautiful. It opens the door to a different but no less magical experience.
This is not an attempt to combat the automation of surfing, only a modest effort to support shapers around the world; a movement to preserve the craft of building surfboards...